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Cat Facts: Bringing Up Kitty: Feline Adoption Raising an Orphan Kitten From the Editors of Cat Facts |
 It is rarely planned, and more typically a matter of chance, but one day you may find yourself holding a completely helpless -- and motherless -- kitten. There are a number of reasons why kittens, alone or with an entire litter, may be orphaned. Perhaps the mother died while giving, or you searched for the sound of mewling kittens and found them abandoned by the side of the road. An otherwise good mother may simply reject, or fail to nurse, one or more kittens because the litter was too large. Whatever the explanation, a newborn, orphaned kitten cannot survive without someone's intervention. Of course, you'd like to be the one who helps give this vulnerable, tiny animal a chance at life, but where to begin?
Kittens are totally dependent upon a mother's care for at least the first four weeks of life. They require warmth and shelter, regular feeding with a nutritious formula, and exposure to others--feline and human--to ensure good socialization. Vulnerable and dependant, they'll need the attentiveness of a loving foster parent to have all these needs met. The ideal alternative to a natural mother is another queen who is already nursing; if you happen to know of such a feline family, try placing the kitten with this foster mother. Queens will usually accept an orphaned kitten, especially if the baby is close to the age of her present litter. If there is no mother cat available, get ready for a time-consuming, but ultimately very satisfying, experience. The equipment you will need:
The Nest Box A simple cardboard box works well as a nest, and can be replaced as needed. Be sure the sides are tall enough to prevent accidental wandering, and the box itself is large enough to permit some crawling or locomotion (especially toward or away from a heat source) but not so large that the kitten will feel lost in it. A cardboard pet carrier would be adequate and is easily cleaned. Be sure that there are no loose sides or box flaps to trap the tiny animal. Line the bottom of the box with towels and place a waterproof diaper pad on top (with the absorbent surface facing up). Kittens cannot regulate their own body temperature, so you will need a heat source, which can be a 60-watt light bulb placed two to three feet above the kitten, or a heating pad (placed below the box) covering only half its surface area. One word of caution: Heating pads can be dangerously hot, and should never be placed in direct contact with kittens. The pad should extend to only a part of the nest area, to allow kittens the choice of moving toward or away from the warmth as needed. For the first week of life, the nest box temperature should be approximately 88° to 92°F (31° to 33.5°C); for the second week, approximately 85°F (29.5°C), and for weeks three and four, 80°F (26.5°C). Over the age of one month, the room temperature can approach typical levels ranging between 70° and 75°F (21° to 24°C). The Veterinary Examination If you are unfamiliar with the mother or with the kittens' source or background, a veterinary visit is an important first step. Your veterinarian can answer your questions and check to be sure there are no serious problems (flea infestation, for example, can lead to a fatal anemia in newborns, while an upper respiratory virus can cause discomfort that may keep kittens from drinking enough formula). Some congenital abnormalities, such as an incompletely closed hard palate, can often be identified even in the youngest kitten. It may also be necessary to vaccinate orphaned kittens who did not receive the mother's antibody-rich colostrum (early milk produced in the first two days after queening). Feeding the Orphan Kitten The weight of kittens should be closely monitored using a scale that measures weight in grams. Jotting down a record of weights in a journal can be very helpful if you encounter problems and must consult with your veterinarian. Newborn kittens typically weigh in at about 100 grams, and should double their weight during the first week. Kittens have specific nutritional requirements that cannot be met with cow's milk. They should be fed a commercially prepared infant kitten formula, available from your veterinarian or from a pet supply store. Because they cannot drink very much at one sitting, kittens should be fed approximately every two to four hours (more often at first, and less often later), following the feeding chart provided on the formula label. By using powdered formula you can prepare only enough for one day, and refrigerate the unused portion; before feeding, heat the formula carefully to 100°F (38°C) by placing the waterproof container of formula into a pot of hot water; never use a microwave to heat formula, because of the risk of hot spots. Feed each kitten in an upright position, without forcing the formula or squeezing the bottle (pushing formula into the kitten's mouth may result in inhaling the liquid into the lungs). Rub or massage the kitten gently after its meal to encourage burping. It is also important to help the kittens eliminate, because they cannot do so on their own. Their feline mother would lick the urogenital area (around the anus and the penis or vagina); you can mimic this action using with a cotton ball moistened with warm water, in order to stimulate urination and defecation. This post-feeding stimulation is necessary until the kitten is at least three weeks old. While kittens normally produce soft stools, diarrhea may signal overfeeding or, at the very least, a need for more fluids to replace what is lost. Seek a veterinarian's advice if there is persistent diarrhea. By the age of three weeks, and certainly by four weeks, kittens should be interested in drinking from a shallow dish. A small amount of finely ground solid food (turkey or beef baby food works well) can be introduced at four weeks and added to a dish of formula, starting the road to weaning (which can be completed by six to seven weeks). Kittens should steadily gain weight (approximately 10 grams per day). If there is no weight gain, or if a kitten seems too quiet or is crying excessively, it should be seen by a veterinarian. Handling and Socialization One beneficial effect of bottle-feeding is that kittens will be gently handled and stroked many times each day. Such handling is an important part of socializing kittens. In addition to handling by you, it is helpful to expose the kitten to other cats (making sure first, however, that all kittens or cats have been vaccinated against common viruses). When possible, orphaned kittens should be raised in the company of others of their own kind. After a month of such diligent work, you are sure to see the product of all your loving care and attention: A rambunctious and healthy kitten running through your house, climbing your furniture, eating like a monster, and burying herself deep in your heart. |
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